We continue our series of articles where we will interview representatives from some of the world’s top manufacturers. A few months ago you could read about our meeting with Phillip Car shoe manufacturer from Saint Crispin and today we are taking another specialist. We have met Simone Finamore from exclusive skjortmakaren Finamore Napoli.
We meet Simone at the company’s Trunk Show and measure sewing event of Gabucci in Stockholm. Simone belongs to the third generation of the company founded by his grandmother in 1925. Together with his sister and two brothers run the family business which many do the world’s finest clothing shirts.
What would you say makes Finamore Napoli unique in the industry?
It is a mix of several things. We use the finest materials, of course, there is, so to speak no point in sewing shirts by hand in substandard materials. The fit of our shirts is also very important. It should be comfortable and at the same time sexy and flattering. Last but not least, our shirt collars which are all designed by us over the years.
Why is it according to you is better to sew a shirt for the hand than with a machine?
Above all, for all the shirts sewn by hand can be made more comfortable and mobile. Then you can work with a shirt in a completely different way of care than can be done with a machine. The whole process such as cutting and sewing different between hand and machine stitched shirts. Seams sewn by hand, for example, more elastic less strain on them when moving.
Are there specific elements of a shirt that is important to sew by hand than others?
The most important and best part to sew by hand, shoulder and armhole. It allows one to increase mobility throughout the shirt by a founder armhole which are difficult to machine. This is evident, for example, clearly when driving a car with his arms forward as deep cut armholes forces throughout the shirt to move.
And to hand-stitched details are beautiful aesthetically?
Yes! Obvious! First and foremost the highly practical characteristics but obviously we think that handmade is more beautiful and has a nicer feel.
You produce something of independent producers?
No, Finamore produced 100% in-house. That is why we invite many of our customers and dealers to our factory. We organize these trips regularly so we can showcase the work behind our shirts actually works. We produce not shirts to other suppliers than Finamore. We prefer to focus on our own production consists of about 65,000 to 70,000 shirts per year.
What is the perfect shirt you would recommend that you have in the closet?
First of all, a white shirt that you can always carry. In tygväg it is up to the customer’s personal preferences and what it will be used, but we always recommend a fine cloth. A shirt is what you often wear next to the skin and therefore place great demands on quality. Regarding collar I recommend a Kent or cutaway collar has the advantage that you can wear it with or without a tie, and even without the jacket.
Many readers wonder about the high numbers that sometimes figures when it comes to shirting?
I’m not so fond of such delicate and sensitive fabrics. Although there are crazy numbers up to 300 yarns I recommend never above 200 but preferably 170. It is in my opinion the best you can buy for you go higher than this, the shirts easy as raincoats. Tightly woven fabric becomes so that they do not breathe for longer. The feeling in the hand is like silk, but the result of wearing them becomes uncomfortable when risk sweating hard. They are not particularly useful in this regard.
What is the ideal fabric according to you?
170, doubleTwist. For example, a twill or oxford.
What do you think about Trunk Shows like this?
Trunk Shows are extremely important! It is one of the best ways for us to reach out directly to the end consumer. Feedback from consumers is invaluable for a producer and through resellers will be easy a filter where not all information comes to light.
How big does the premium Made to Measure over clothing shirts?
In roughly 25% surcharge provided that it is the same price level on the fabric. Then we create a unique pattern for the customer. The pattern then we save so that you can easily order a new shirt in the future.
Do you offer custom shirts in addition to the MTM?
Yes, we offer tailor-made shirts which includes a sample shirt and fittings through our studio in Naples.
With some custom-made shirts have myself had the problem of shrink so even if the shirt was perfect on delivery arm may be too short after 2-3 washes. How do you deal with such a problem?
We always take into account krympmånen in our production. Not only for the length and width but also the shirt collars, cuffs, etc. It is based on the experience we have built up over 90 years of production.