Reports: In September 2007, wrote about our site new Oscar Jacobson . When the plan was to wipe out the old man’s stamp and give the brand more aplomb. With new owners and a new management appears to mark now just over two years later to make the same trip.
– This time, we have been very consistent. The change is made from scratch with everything from a new trouser and jacket silhouette new proprietary fabrics, says Roger Tjernberg CEO of Oscar Jacobson.
The spring collection as of this writing is on the way out to the stores is a first result of the brand change. Autumn will bring even greater changes, including a brand new jacket design, collaboration with Loro Piana and a further collection.
– In terms of our position is that no dramatic changes. We continue to be a company with a focus on clothing. Stylistically it happens, however, pretty much where we have strengthened our core collection and added new parts to be as comprehensive as possible. For the upcoming fall we introduce a new concept that we call Sartorial Leisure where we took in a little workwear influences with washed fabrics and completely okonstruerade jackets. Since we have created an exclusive collection in conjunction with Loro Piana where we used a full canvas construction, says Roger.
The biggest overall change is in the jacket and the pants silhouette. For pants, the brand has adopted a narrower cut with a slightly lower waist. The jacket has received a face change with narrower sleeves and a slightly shorter silhouette, but above all a new axis:
– To create a softer shaft line has been a very important part for us. We felt that the structured and relatively immobile axis that have long dominated the fashion scene began to feel very outdated. Therefore, we have looked great on the Neapolitan tailors known for its soft silhouette. It is a very difficult part to get to because it requires greater precision which uses a softer coating to form the shaft. The advantage is that the shaft becomes much more mobile and easier while becoming more body near, says Roger.
Is it possible to get a soft shoulder without sewing by hand?
– I think it is exciting that we actually manage to create a natural feel for a larger scale production. For us it is important that the quality is even, which is impossible to get to with hand-sewn garments. For better or worse, of course, the feeling never gets real same.
Today sewn all your clothes in Lithuania. What does the country of manufacture of the final product
– I’ve been through and seen how the production moved from Sweden to Finland, Portugal, Eastern Europe and now Asia. The truth is that the quality is much better, while the price is relatively unchanged. The manufacturers who adamantly clung to produce in Sweden were finally forced to simplify their garments to the point that they were bland and lost its soul. At present, we are very satisfied with the quality of our factory and is also the distance to Lithuania very important cards are important for us to have an overview of the production.
Roger speaks warmly about the company’s heritage and unique knowledge. But is there really any substance in it when the clothing industry disappeared over 30 years ago?
– In the ’60s was actually Sweden in the forefront when it came to clothing and above all modern technology with fixed garments. We had a reputation for making stylish and follow the same garment. Our pattern designers were world famous. I remember when I worked at Tiger with a pattern designer named Leif Menfors. He had clean rock-star status as he went around to the manufacturers in Europe. Recall that we visited Chester Barrie and he was picked up in a Rolls Royce. Much of this knowledge is actually left in Oscar Jacobson today. We have staff who know exactly how a spacer, a buttonhole or evidence behaves and what it takes to get all the details together. There is a culture and tremendous knowledge of Oscar Jacobson which makes the work rewarding. You just have to do something useful with it.
Structurally, working Oscar Jacobsson currently four types of structures; a fixed where the chest pikeras hand, half a canvas with liquid shim for stroke and chest, a full canvas and a completely unlined construction without liners. The price ranges from 3000 to around 8000 SEK for a jacket.
– 90% of our sales are fixed garments and we are constantly working to improve this technology. A lot has happened with the shims, which today is very pliable and durable. Then it’s fun to be able to offer half and full canvas for anything more informed customers. The okonstruerade design is completely new for this year and something we strongly believe in. But it’s also a technology that requires a lot of manufacturers and not least the pattern designer. The fit has to be right from the start.
What is it that makes you focus on the unlined style?
– That’s where we see that men’s fashion is moving. It’s no secret that we inspired a lot of Italian brands that Boglioli and Brunello Cucinelli, who changed fashion scene with his natural idiom. It does a pretty big contrast to brands such as Dior and Gucci that dominated a few years ago. But we realize that today’s customers want everything from a classic business suit for the office to an unlined corduroy blazer to go and watch football.
With full canvas collection you are nearing your pricewise many of the Italian brands. What are the arguments for selecting Oscar Jacobson front, for example, Corneliani or Caruso?
– We differ somewhat from many of the Italian manufacturers by having a slightly more Scandinavian fit and silhouette. Then we pricewise a wider range, especially in terms of our baseline. At the same time, I think we are a very high level of detail. For example vändsys all pants to get a cleanare look. All jackets are quilted chest for a better adherence, plus we use exclusively heavy feed solution which requires more fabric. Now that we have a better fit, it is overall a clear competitive brand. There are fantastic Italian manufacturers, but there is usually pricing also be slightly higher.
For upcoming fall launches mark a collaboration with tygleverantören Loro Piana. Brands have jointly developed unique fabrics for a small collection of suits, jackets, – overcoats and sweaters. Among other shows a fabric quality called Cashmere Wish consisting of 85% cashmere and 15% super 170’s wool. The clothing segment uses the full canvas construction, and the price is from around 8000 for a suit.
The fabrics have been an important part of the change which Oscar Jacobson larger extent, from the previously chosen to develop their own fabrics. The autumn collection is 70% of the fabrics specially developed for the brand.
– This has been important to give the brand a uniqueness. The advantage is that we can color coordinate the collection in a better way. Do we want a certain tone of beige throughout the entire collection, we can get it, which is important to be able to present the clothes in the store. At the same time, we have said that we will certainly not make any buffoon fabrics without us, we want to keep it classic. We’ve checked a lot of older fabric archive and based on that developed classic designs with a modern twist. In addition, we are focusing on the Italian weavers who have a great sense of color and lightness of the fabrics.
Besides the suits and jackets made up Oscar Jacobson range even of shirts, sweaters, ties, scarves and handkerchiefs. This fall introduced a smaller bag collection.
– This will not be our main job, but it is important today to present a comprehensive look. I think the time with lifestyle brands where customers buy everything from top to from a single brand is the past. Today’s customers want themselves create a style. We see this more as a way to present the collection as a whole, then the customer can choose the parts he likes.
The spring collection has received good response and sales increased by 16% from the previous year.At the time of writing going on sale this fall. An important part of this work is to find new outlets for the brand, as Roger says is based in a single thing.
– In the end it is all about making really good clothes. We can never force a store to sell our clothes.Now we feel that we have a very competitive collection that is of interest to a wide audience, says Roger.