It occurs constantly questions about shoe structures. What does the term Goodyear welted and durksytt as good as stripe sewn? To sort out the question marks our site will go through the most common methods to stitch together a shoe. First off, stripe sewn.
The welted construction was originally the result of substandard glue where manufacturers came up with the idea to attach the shoe binding and outsole of the shoe cover by an additional leather stripe (stripe). This process was originally done by hand. In the late 1800s invented the American Charles Goodyear JR how this construction could be manufactured using the machine for larger scale production. Manufacturers from all over Europe traveled across the Atlantic to learn the method and design then came to be called the Goodyear welt.
Sewing a shoe with traditional stripes sewn construction involves a number of different elements. In the first step the shoe upper is attached by means of staples fixed in a part of the insole called ritsläpp. Then sew ritsläppet and shoe ovandal fixed with a thin leather strip running around the shoe (stripe). This is called overlock. The shoe is then filled with cork and attach avlappssöm finally brink with the outer tread. To create the actual ritsläppet carved the original manufacturers insole by hand. Another technique is to cut a gash in the insole edge and then fold down the ritsläpp. Today, both these processes are very rare and the vast majority of manufacturers glue the ritsläppet on the insole.
The main arguments for the welted construction, the resistance to water and the ease of the sole of the shoes, but also comfort. Water resistance is mainly an effect of the shoe upper and insole has protection against water both from the side of the ground. The Verge will prevent water from entering the fortress between the insole and upper part. Since the outsole attached to the brink and not directly into the insole as for durksytt (more on this later) there is no direct channel between the inside of the shoe and sole, which prevents water from flowing directly through.
Since the outsole is not attached to the insole without the brink it is relatively easy to replace a well-used outsole. The comfort is said to be mainly a result of cork filling that has a somewhat cushioning effect, but also the stability of the shoe.
Is when it welted construction guarantee of a well-made shoe? No. The quality is like comfort just as dependent on the right materials and a well read. It is obvious to argue that welted shoes are well suited for Swedish weather, but it is also important to point out that as fragile as substandard durksydda shoes are, as stiff inferior welted. The actual design is not everything.
Next week, our site takes a closer look at the durksydda construction. Until then, enjoy the good shoes. Welted as durksydda.