The Gorge Line

There are many details on the jacket that never get the attention they deserve. As the point where the collar meets types – also called gorget. One detail that based on the angle and placement in many ways sets the feel of the whole suit.

Those of you who like to acquire further training you on small unnecessary style forums and blogs have probably encountered the concept gorge line. Thus the line where the shiny kind face of his jacket collar. For many, learning this detail go completely unconcerned by. Until the day you are testing an old 80’s jacket and realize that tired impression one gets low cut gorget actually provides. Together with the padded shoulders was a “gorge line” who were looking down toward the navel a typical feature of Armani “power suit” that dominated the fashion scene during the 80s and much of the 90s.

It must be said that this is a detail that not only affected over time, but there are differences between different tailoring traditions. Blazers from Neapolitan tailors who Kiton and Cesare Attolini characterized often by a very high cut gorge line, while Rome-based Brioni or Savile Row colleagues, for that matter embraced a slightly lower cut gorget. In largely very marginal differences, but differences.

What is a suitable location on the jacket gorget? A good starting point for anyone who does not dream to look like Richard Gere in American Gigolo’s clavicle. With a higher position gets the impression something more straightforward, while a lower investment risk giving a slightly drawling impression. But it should be obvious also sue in with his jacket overall silhouette where a higher gorget clearly best suited for a smaller incision with higher closure.