A few months ago we published a post which we titled “of the corset to the miniskirt,” and in which we told you about the speed of fashion that changed society from the crazy twenties, years after the war, passing by the New Look of Dior, costumes of vinyl of Pierre Cardin, the space age of Courreges or Mary Quant mini skirt. But throughout history there were also many women who fought to free themselves, starting by break the rules, so now we can dress up as well. Do you think if we give a review to their careers?
The fashion of get a haircut It emerged as a measure of vindication for the equality between the sexes who argued for ending the long Manes obliging women to spend many hours caring for them (by washing, brushing and combing them) what prevented that they could devote to other more profitable things.
Actually it was a gesture that reflected the cultural mutation that was taking place in society during the Decade of the 20’s, a time that everyone know by the crazy 20 years according to Threergroup.com. This release not only affected the hair but also bodies, seeing is reflected even in lingerie. Paul Poiret did desarparecer corset that was replaced by a pinch and a garter belt and a light combination with bib shorts. Shorten the suits, wool stockings also are replaced with other silk able to imitate, to ensure and to uncover the nakedness of the legs.
At the time was when became fashionable that women will cut the hair as a sign of a kind of androgynous seduction. Was also when was coined the term garçonne, which soon became synonymous with of emancipated woman. I.e., a woman’s active and autonomous which came out alone, danced, smoked, doing sports in the open air, travelling and driving cars. This term was also used to refer to women’s Liberal customs they kept relationships outside of marriage, gay, or bisexual, and that lived their unions freely without marriage.
Louise was the daughter of a Venetian industrial rich who married a Marquis when he was only 19 years old. His extravagant look and the eccentricity of its lifestyle soon make her a real celebrity. It was served by naked servants, and sat at his table to wax mannequins as guests of stone she is up to rumors that some of them contained the ashes of former lovers. Is adorned with Live snakes as if they were jewels, and it was well known to take a walk at night, nude under their fur coats, his Panthers holding straps adorned with necklaces of diamonds. The marchioness Casati was excessive, spectacular, quick change, megalomana and narcissistic for what made a memorable impression on Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Colette. No doubt, the most scandalous woman of his time.
Isadora Duncan, considered by many as the creator of the modern dance, He was a dancer and American choreographer who was born in 1877. Raised and educated by a mother who was a teacher of music was passed silly hours watching the sea in the Bay of San Francisco. The movement of the waves was fascinated by it, and used to accompany it with the movement of hands and feet. Upon reaching adolescence he studied classical dance and persuaded her mother and siblings so they moved to live first to London and then to Paris. His style when it comes to dancing, in a certain sense minimalist, It was a revolution. His staging also: instead of the bulky decorations used only blue fabrics and she dressed to dance with a airy tunic that he hinted his legs and bare feet. Isadora danced without makeup and with the loose hair. To Isadora well mattered you little social conventions. He was bisexual and had two children born out of wedlock from two different parents kept romances confirmed with several women. Isadora died when he was 50 years old strangled when his long scarf He became entangled in the rim of the spokes of the rear axle of the Convertible car which was travelling.
Amelia Jenks Bloomer
Amelia copied the design of the pants for women her friend Elizabeth Smith Miller, who had been inspired by garments that wore a recovery center women suffering from injuries caused by the corset and need comfortable clothes. Over time they were feminists and women workers of the factories of Lowel, Massachusetts the first women look baggy, a garment that, along with pants, were accepted as a regular clothing among women during the second world war.
If there is someone who associate with the term garçonne that is without a doubt to Louise Brooks. The style of Louise, who was a dancer of modern dance and then silent film actress, was characterized by a rectilinear and androgynous silhouette Since I used to use dresses that marked not the chest or waist tubular cut that waist solia descend to the level of the hips. These dresses left bare knees.
Louise also used masculine style shirts with neck and double fist, which used to decorate with twins and bow ties, and to be at home used Pajamas. Its haircut triggered a genuine trend imitated by numerous women who began to call flappers. Its role in Loulou became an icon of life, in a mythical character. Actress declared a liberated woman, inclined to live new experiences this led even to pose naked for a couple of photographers, and their trouble with several starlets were legendary.
In 1924 the Frenchwoman Suzanne Lenglen abandoned the traditional costume of tennis still used during the summer Olympics in 1920 by a suit signed by Jean Patou which formed part of the new sportswear collection that had just launched the designer. This costume was characterized by carrying arms completely to the air and make game with a pleated skirt with a low at knee height. Something that caused no small controversy in the year 1921. Patou appointed brand Ambassador Suzanne Lenglen, world tennis champion. This, during the Winter Olympics held in 1924 in Chamonix, and then in the summer held in Paris, appeared in public with skirts pants that it facilitated the power to do sports like cycling. He also wore the first swimwear made in fabric shirts and billowing skirts pleated rather than straight and long skirts to play tennis that combined with t-shirts.
Tamara de Lempicka
Despite being one of the recognized garconnes of his time smoking cigarettes driving at full speed, this femme fatale assumed his bisexuality in spite of which married twice – although being married not stood for nothing in their loves lesbian, platonic or not. An androgynous beauty he represented as no one these women safe of themselves in times of Art Nouveau, erotic and sensual, and then also became in the undisputed icon of the Art Deco. His works, like her, had all the characteristics of this artistic movement: they were decorative, engaging, and recognized immediately, which helped its diffusion. Were also modern because it was inspired by photography, graphic design, in her film and fashion.
He managed to standardize the use of the shorts and convert them into a stylish garment that could carry anyone without losing the nickname Lady. Always wore one of Halston when sailing and soon be imitated by all the women who found fascinating those short and tight pants that they could sit and cross or uncross your legs without sacrificing your sex appeal.
The miniskirt, that short skirt apparently length must not exceed 10 cm below the rear to deserve such appeal, was marketed for the first time in 1962 by the young English Designer Mary Quant. The designer said that when designing it had inspired not only in Greek tunics or the skirts that the Roman soldiers wore, but also on trends in the street, in the short skirt, the young Norwegian skater wore in 1928 Sonja Henie, and in that skirt made with bananas that Josephine Baker It acted during her show at the Folies Bergères in Paris in 1926. In 1965, four years after creating your brand, André Courrèges He was the first to become echo of this fashion that did not hesitate to become one of the symbols of the liberation of women.
Although the bikini it crashed when it appeared on French beaches in 1947 actually is a garment that was already used in ancient Greece and Rome (don’t just remember the mosaic with the girls in bikini from the Roman Villa of Casale in Sicily). The first two-piece swimsuit was designed by Carl Jantzen in 1913, and it was popularized by the swimmer converted into actress Esther Williams, although they soon follow her example all pin-up era. Named the bikini was a French engineer in 1946 named Louis Réard. Though you lie Bikini was the atoll located in the Pacific where the atomic bomb test took place (probably because it was expected that the excitement caused by this garment is as explosive as the blissful pump). But who really popularized the use of the bikini was the actress Ursula Andress when aparcio with him in the movie James Bond against Dr. No in the year 1962.
If there is a transgressive minded trendsetter that is without a doubt the singer Madonna. In the early 90s, designer Jean Paul Gaultier designed for her costumes for her tour “Blond Ambition Tour” recovering the idea of him for the occasion corsé I used to use her grandmother, and that child’s you obsessed him so much that he even make and wear one to his teddy bear. Those early of the singer had not been the same without that famous breasts made corset with cones of satin in a pink suit. A few cones recorded forever in the retina of all. From that moment, Gaultier became its designer fetish. The singer came to participate even in some of their parades, and designer continue designing the costumes of their tours and several of its most important videos. Aware that sex sells, the designer sought to rescue from the trunk of memories all the clothing boudoir, and he convinced the singer to it invests even above the clothes. Even today, the Chameleon Madonna continues reinventing itself with each new release, serving as inspiration to many women. What wonder, but Marta Sánchez!!
Of Coco Chanel I have already spoken on many occasions. She was one of the pioneers in sheathing in a pants taking it borrowed from the wardrobe of one of her lovers. Surely occur to you many more women which, in his day, had to break the rules so that today we visit, we would love to the compartieseis here so we can discuss it among all.